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  • Chose a different Brand

    I would chose another brand when choosing an outboard motor. I have a 2012 Etec on a 98 18' Trophy.. Dealer unable to fix it. If you're considering a replacement motor, I would choose another brand.

  • #2
    It's not the dealer/dealership, it's the mechanically non-knowledgeable person that's pretending to be a outboard mechanic who really should be doing something else for a living.

    You could have taken the trouble to state just exactly what the engine is doing or not doing instead of jumping the gun and running Evinrude down and insinuating in effect that this site is somewhat lacking?

    let us know what the problem is in detail... not just some generalities such as it's hard starting, runs like crap, dies out in one gear more-so that the other. Explanations such as that tells us nothing. Be precise, go into detail.

    If no answers are forthcoming here, try the iboats and marineengine forums. Just keep in mind that the proper answers depend on how the problem is explained.

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    • #3
      Showed the dealer a video of how it runs. Did even better since they worked on it. When trying to get on plane, it takes for forever. Motor is digging ,digging then the engine rpm picks up then away we go. Motor generally runs good.
      Overheats when I'm running low speed, such as a no wake zone, runs cooler when running up to speed. Doesn't overheat at idle. Weather not even that yet. Thanks.

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      • #4
        Fishing.... It just dawned on me that your 2012 Etec engine would be a "Fuel Injected" engine (No Carburetors?). If so, unfortunately I retired in 1991 due to a torn up back, and at that time... straight fuel injected engines (not VRO) did not exist so my knowledge in that area is rather limited... and guess work is quite expensive.

        Are you using the recommended spark plugs in that engine?

        As such, I'll hold off with any advice I personally could offer... excepting to mention that a slow drawn out, takes forever to plane out problem is normally due to one (or all) of four things..... Pitch too high on a prop... boat false bottom full of water... bottom of hull saturated with marine life... or a faulty running engine such as running on 3 cylinders, whatever!.

        If that rig "ever" functioned normally in all respects with either the present propeller or a identical propeller, well, that eliminates the prop mention, leaving the problem to be with the engine, marine life on the hull, or the boat's false bottom (water). <-- Worth checking if not already checked.

        I feel sure you've had the spark and compression checked more than once... BUT... that's something we all would need to know up front, something we would rather have checked by yourself than a third party unless you're standing right alongside them if possible. With "all" spark plugs removed...............

        Standing in back of the engine, facing the spark plugs, the cylinders are marked as follows:

        2.....1
        4.....3

        1 - What are the compression psi readings of the individual cylinders?

        2 - Spark plugs still removed... The spark should jump a 7/16" gap at cranking speed with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?
        ********************
        (Spark Tester - Home Made)
        (J. Reeves)

        You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

        A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

        Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

        ..........X1..........X2

        .................X..(grd)

        ..........X3..........X4

        This can obviously be modified to a 6 or 8 cylinder setup tester.
        ********************
        Although I can offer no more at the moment, I will be following along with whatever is entered and hopefully the answer to your problem can be found on this site. (Joe)

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        • #5
          Ok. Thanks. Spark plugs and water pump replaced at a couple months ago.

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