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  • Hard Start Won't Start Evinrude

    1995 70HP Evinrude, first start up of the day is normal, throttle in neutral, pump fuel bulb, crank while pushing the ignition key in, starts on 2nd or 3rd try. Several hours latter won't start plugs get flooded acts like there is no spark. The next day it will start again only once. I was alone so I could not test for spark this has been going on for some time what might it be

  • #2
    If it starts and runs normally on the first start of the day... no need to check the compression.

    On the second start...... The engine has been sitting while you're fishing or whatever. The cooling water drains out of the powerhead. All of the engine's heat rises to the top of the engine... right where the stator is (the beginning of the charging & ignition system...

    Now, that stator when failing, melting down actually, will provide approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack's capacitor which is needed to energize the pack "WHEN COLD."

    When HOT... this creates a voltage drop to the pack (keeping it simple) which results in weak, erratic, and eventually NO ignition/spark.

    View the stator under the flywheel closely for a sticky looking substance dripping down upon the timer base and the powerhead area. If this scenario exists, replace the stator.

    Let us know what you find.

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    • #3
      thank you I will check it out this weekend, so the flywheel needs to come off correct? Is there anything I need to know about removing and reinstalling the flywheel

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      • #4
        Originally posted by mrelmo View Post
        thank you I will check it out this weekend, so the flywheel needs to come off correct? Is there anything I need to know about removing and reinstalling the flywheel

        Unfortunately I retired in 1991 so I'm not sure what you can see "under" the stator. Perhaps one can still see perfectly in that area. If so, no need to remove the flywheel for the viewing. It's not the top of the stator that one is interested in. A very good flashlight would be a help. If what I suspect presents itself, you won't be able to miss it.

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        • #5
          Joe I do value your help, while reading a evinrude service manual and seloc book, I have a question about the information in the books. Both refer to the charging system which I interpret the stator putting a charge into the battery. I have no issue at all with the battery staying fully charged even after cranking without starting, so I take that as the "charging" system is working fine. Am I miss interpenetrating the stator as an alternator or is there a dual purpose of the stator. If so can the stator provide a full charge to the battery but a diminished spark to the plugs am I stating this clearly thank you

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          • #6
            Originally posted by mrelmo View Post
            Joe I do value your help, while reading a evinrude service manual and seloc book, I have a question about the information in the books. Both refer to the charging system which I interpret the stator putting a charge into the battery. I have no issue at all with the battery staying fully charged even after cranking without starting, so I take that as the "charging" system is working fine. Am I miss interpenetrating the stator as an alternator or is there a dual purpose of the stator. If so can the stator provide a full charge to the battery but a diminished spark to the plugs am I stating this clearly thank you


            Clearly understood.... Back in 1961 when the alternator system system first came out, and when it combined with the ignition system in 1972, it was no picnic for us either.

            The stator is a two fold component. There are a series of small coils lining that sealed unit that are battery charging coils that supply AC voltage to a rectifier which convert that voltage to DC voltage in order to charge the battery. And there are three (3) larger coils within the stator on your model engine that are separated evenly which supplies approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack capacitor, needed to energize the powerpack. Hence the dual wiring protruding from the stator... two yellow wires (Battery charging).... two brown wires, one usually w/yellow stripe (Pack AC voltage supply).

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            • #7
              Thank you understood, if the stator is not the issue what is the next item to check.

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              • #8
                OK so today the motor would not start, looked under the flywheel and everything was clean, checked for spark and there was no spark at any of the 3 cylinders, thinking it must be the power pack, is there anyway to test the power pack with a meter. This has been an intermittent problem that finally seems to be the power pack any thoughts, also if I replace the power pack does it matter which wire at the pack goes to the which plug

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by mrelmo View Post
                  OK so today the motor would not start, looked under the flywheel and everything was clean, checked for spark and there was no spark at any of the 3 cylinders, thinking it must be the power pack, is there anyway to test the power pack with a meter. This has been an intermittent problem that finally seems to be the power pack any thoughts, also if I replace the power pack does it matter which wire at the pack goes to the which plug
                  If the stator indeed is not melting down.... and the lost ignition/spark returns with letting the engine sitting to cool down (a cooling off period and also a electronic/electrical idle time)... two happenings come to mind, both of which have to do with the Black/Yellow wire (kill circuit) at the "M" terminal of the ignition switch, as follows:

                  P/Pack to coil wiring..... Top=Orange/Blue... Center=Orange... Bottom=Orange/Green.

                  Most common intermittent problems besides the stator follow:
                  ********************
                  1 - Voltage To Powerpack Failure Test
                  (Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
                  (J. Reeves)

                  The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.
                  Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

                  Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire and ground.

                  With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

                  Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

                  If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

                  Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

                  Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.
                  ********************
                  2 - Ignition Switch Shorting To Ground Test
                  (Magneto Capacitance Discharge Ignition - 1973 to Present)
                  (J. Reeves)

                  Remove the spark plugs so that the engine may crank at its maximum rpms. Rig up some kind of spark tester whereas you can set a gap of 7/16". If no spark is present, find the Black wire that has a Yellow stripe (refered to as the Black/Yellow wire) at the powerpack. Disconnect that Black/Yellow wire from the pack, then recheck the ignition/spark. If you still have no spark, the usual cause is a failed powerpack.

                  However, if you now have spark, the problem may be due to either a short in the engine or instrument wiring harness or a faulty ignition switch. To find out which may be the case, reconnect the Black/Yellow wire to the powerpack, then disconnect the main red electrical plug at the engine, then check for spark again (crank the engine by using a small jumper from the battery side of the starter solenoid to one of the smaller 3/8" hex nut terminals on the solenoid..... not the ground terminal!). If you still have spark, the engine wiring harness is okay.

                  Re-connect that main red electrical connector, then remove the Black/Yellow wire from the back of the ignition switch, then check for spark again. If you now have spark but do not when that black/yellow wire is attached to the ignition switch, the ignition switch is faulty and will require replacing.
                  ********************
                  Let us know what you find.
                  Last edited by Joe Reeves; 09-01-2019, 07:21 AM.

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                  • #10
                    Thank you, next week is busy I will not be able to check until the 12th at the earliest, one thing I do know is a hot motor is not an issue, as this has never happened when the motor was hot it actually would not start only when it was cold

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                    • #11
                      After performing the two spark tests as per my post reply #9, do the following test, then let me know in detail what you found in all three.

                      ********************
                      Originally posted by mrelmo View Post
                      Thank you, next week is busy I will not be able to check until the 12th at the earliest, one thing I do know is a hot motor is not an issue, as this has never happened when the motor was hot it actually would not start only when it was cold
                      ********************


                      Are you absolutely sure that there was No Spark on any of those three cylinders? That introduction to the problem sounds more like the Fuel Primer Solenoid isn't working properly.<-- This would be the same as having one of the older engines with a choke butterfly and trying to start the engine without choking it. It can be easily tested as follows:

                      There are two (2) small hoses leading from the fuel primer solenoid, one of which leads to a Tee to create a total of three hoses leading to either a fitting on the top rear portion of the carburetors or to the intake manifold itself... Remove one of those hoses from the carburetor or the intake manifold.

                      Pump the fuel primer bulb up hard... Turn the key to the RUN position... Push the key in. Fuel should shoot out of that hose. It should also shoot out in the START position. Does it?
                      Last edited by Joe Reeves; 09-02-2019, 10:06 AM.

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                      • #12
                        MrElmo.... I entered a lengthy reply this past Monday, then did a minor edit... spelling or some such thing... after which I received a message that stated, in not so many words, that apparently I had inserted something dreadfully so my post/reply will not be available for viewing until after the moderator checks it over thoroughly. I contacted the site with three emails since then, the latest was yesterday. As of this writing, I've received no answer... I also, quite some time back, sent this site a email requesting that I be able to enter graphics/pictures pertaining to engine graphics as everyone knows that a picture is worth a thousand words... I never received a reply to that either.

                        So.... as of this morning (09/04/19, 10:45am), whether you eventually receive my original reply is up in the air. Always possible it is out in Ya Ya land. If my reply doesn't show up today, I really don't know what to tell you, but other than this, I wouldn't chance going to all that trouble again.

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                        • #13
                          Received your postings, going out of town on friday will not return untill Tuesday , later in the week I will work on the boat and report thank you

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