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**Joe Reeves** · 09-02-2016, 10:02 AM

1 - Sort of.

2 - Have the shift lever in reverse. Look under the bottom carburetor where the shift rod comes up. There will be a small hex head bolt there with a slot in it going from starboard to port (right to left-if I remember right), it usually has a 3/8" head but it could be 7/16" on some models... remove it. This disconnects the lower unit shift rod from the powerhead shift linkage.

3 - Have a helper with you as installing can be a little nerve wracking in getting it all lined up at times. Be sure to remove the bolt under the trim tab.

4 - Try this site for a water pump kit... have the model number of your engine handy. If no luck here, try MarineEngine.com .

5 - DO NOT turn the shift rod as the measurement from the top of the lower unit to the center of the shift hole in neutral is critical!

**jamescarrollpittman** · 09-03-2016, 12:03 PM

evinrude 1984e115tlcrd remove lower unit

Joe,
Still trying to understand what exactly I have to do to disconnect shift rod.
I removed carbuerator intake and disconnected shift and throttle cables to get better access. I can see a square block with a rod shaped like a "J" going into it. I think they call this the shift lever. It connects to the shift cable. On top of the block is what looks like a 3/8 " bolt. This bolt seems to only be accessable in the reverse position. I don't see anything else. If this is the bolt I have to remove does it have to be completely removed as I don't know how I will get back in the block? Does the shift lever have to be pulled back or out after the bolt on the block is removed.
Man I am sorry for putting you through all of this, but I am working alone trying to get back in the water for fall fishing.
thanks
jamescpittman

**Joe Reeves** · 09-03-2016, 06:18 PM

James.... With the carburetor removed, you shouldn't have a problem getting at the retaining "Long Shoulder Bolt" that has a slot in it's hex head.

You can see the aluminum clevis block that is attached (clamped) to the end of the steel shift lever shaft. You should also be able to see the vertical shift rod coming up from the lower unit that slides into a slot in that aluminum clevis block.

The shoulder bolt I speak of would be horizontal and screwed into that aluminum clevis block so that the long end of that shoulder bolt slides through the hole in the top portion of the shift rod.

I can't think of a easier way to explain it. Let me know if this helps. (Joe)

**jamescarrollpittman** · 09-03-2016, 08:01 PM

Thanks again Joe. Yep. It can't be much clearer. I can see the bloc, the pin and shaft on the parts breakdown I got at one of the web sites, but i'm having a hard time putting eyeballs on that horizontal pin on the motor. So much stuff in my way.I can see the split where the shift rod connects to, but not the end of the shift rod yet. I guess I will have to remove the bottom carbuerator after all. Would a shop mechanic have to remove the carberator for access or is there a better way?
Joe, I worked 37 years in the chemical industry and I can tell you anything you want to know about making and shipping Chlorine gas. I was in charge of a plant that produced and shipped 900 tons of liquid Chlorine a day, so I do know some things about how things work but not much about OB motors. I will get this job done.
Thanks for your patience and positive comments. People like yourself that volunteer your time to help guys like me are appreciated. I will let you know the outcome of this repair job.
jamescpittman

**Joe Reeves** · 09-03-2016, 09:25 PM

Your work experience.... Yes, I understand what you're saying. I take it for granted that you're not a dummy.

I've worked on many of the 1984 V4 engines and have never removed the bottom carburetor. However, I know that the shift rod bolt is really a pain just to see, let alone remove and replace it.

I use a 1/4" type ratchet with a long extension and a universal 3/8 or 7/16" flex socket to remove/loosen, and install/tighten that long shoulder bolt. I use a mechanics flexible finger tool to actually pull the bolt out after loosening and to put it back in to tighten. If you don't know the tool I speak of, ask someone in your local auto parts store or Harbor Freight if one is in your area.

It helps to have the shift cable disconnected so that you can move that aluminum clevis block up/down while you squint under all that other stuff with a bright flashlight.

Question..... The heavy duty round shift rod that sticks straight up in the air, then curves inwards at its lower portion to enter a nylon bushing at the intake manifold area..... Right directly at that nylon bushing area, is there by any chance a washer held in place there by what is called a fairly large clevis pin?

Some (many) mechanics call that a "Jesus" pin as the smaller ones have a habit flying off into no-mans land when removed, and the first loud burst coming out of the mechanics mouth is _____ _______!! (You can fill in the blanks)

**jamescarrollpittman** · 09-07-2016, 10:38 AM

evinrude 1984e115tlcrd remove lower unit

Yeah Joe I got a Jesus pin. Looking around I see a lot of Jesus stuff. Thanks for the tips on tools to use and exact location of the shift lever pin. I will work on this as time permits and will let post when job is complete.
When I was working I always used experts foe advice. That's why I came to this forum.
Thanks again
jamescpittman

**Joe Reeves** · 09-07-2016, 02:44 PM

Originally posted by jamescarrollpittman View Post

Yeah Joe I got a Jesus pin. Thanks for the tips on tools to use and exact location of the shift lever pin.

When I was working I always used experts foe advice. That's why I came to this forum. Thanks again. jamescpittman

NOTE: James... If that really is a large Clevis/Jesus Pin, read on (Below) BUT if that is just a cotter pin, refer back to the procedure of removing the long slotted hex head shoulder bolt!

Strange.... The 1984 115hp Evinrude/Johnson is supposed to have the long slotted hex head shoulder bolt, however if your engine has a large "Clevis Pin" at the location I specified, the procedure to release the shift rod is different as follows:

Remove the Clevis Pin...... Push that round shift lever towards the opposite side of the engine.... that will push the retaining pin (part of the aluminum shift block) out of the lower unit's shift rod.

Reverse the procedure to install the pin.

**jamescarrollpittman** · 09-07-2016, 04:57 PM

evinrude 1984e115tlcrd remove lower unit

Joe,
It's a cotter pin. I thought it was kind of small to be called big. So I will refer back to your earlier post. Sorry about the confusion.
jamescpittman

**jamescarrollpittman** · 09-10-2016, 04:36 PM

evinrude 1984e115tlcrd remove lower unit

Don't know what that last reply was all about, but I wish the all the luck in the world.
Joe, I got the shoulder bolt that goes through the shift linkage out. It was exactly as you said. I removed the trimplate and the bolt under it and the four bolts on the under side of the gear case. A total of five bolts into the housing. That is all of the bolts that I can see attached to th exhaust housing. There is one more bolt under the trim tab, but it doesn't go through the flange to the exhaust housing. Any way, I was expecting the lowwr unit to fall out but something seems to be holding it back.
I hate to ask you, but do you see anything I am missing? We're making progress, so before I tear something thought of asking you.
James Pittman

**Joe Reeves** · 09-10-2016, 05:27 PM

James... You state: "There is one more bolt under the trim tab, but it doesn't go through the flange to the exhaust housing."

I have no idea what that means... BUT... that bolt must be removed!

There are 8 bolts altogether when including the trim tab bolt.

**Joe Reeves** · 09-11-2016, 10:32 AM

This character from Vietnam is becoming a real PITA!

**jamescarrollpittman** · 09-11-2016, 04:37 PM

evinrude 1984e115tlcrd remove lower unit

Boy I think were about there. OK. There is one more bolt under the lower unit flange near the trim tab more toward the center of the lower unit flange. I am looking at a drawing of the lower unit gear case. I think it may be called the filler block screw. I will remove it tomorrow as my wife will not be here to listen to me talk to my motor.
Thanks for your patience. One other question. While I have this unit apart is it possible to replace the water intake screens without removing the drive shaft or exposing the workings of the crank case? They're starting to come apart.
james pittman

**Joe Reeves** · 09-11-2016, 06:23 PM

As I remember it, the filler (zink) block bolt does not need to be removed.

The water intake screen can be removed/installed simply by removing the water pump impeller plate.

Note that the empty shell of the lower unit would be the "Gearcase"... the "Crankcase" would be the empty shell of the powerhead.

How many bolts did you remove from the lower unit?

**jamescarrollpittman** · 09-11-2016, 07:21 PM

evinrude 1984e115tlcrd remove lower unit

Joe, I removed the trim tab bolt and trim tab. I removed the bolt from under the trim tab that screws into the exhaust flange, and I removed 4 bolts along the gear case flange that screw into the exhaust flange. That is all that I see. I am getting about a 1/8th gap, but it won't come out. Afraid to use pry bars and such. Not counting the trim tab bolt, that's 5 bolts all labeled #78 and described as " Gear Case to Exhaust Housing" on my parts drawing and five are required. There is another bolt on my drawing labeled #63 and the description is "Gear Case to housing Short", but I am not sure where this one is.
I Hope this makes sense to you.
At this point I am not sure what position the shift rod is in as it is disconnected under the power head.
jamespittman

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1984 e115tlcrd remove lower unit

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