Picture #1 shows the plate containing the model and serial number on the starboard (right) transom bracket, close to where the steering cable is attached. What is the model number of that engine?

Look closer at the color of that wire... is it actually a TAN colored wire?

Now, look at the wire that protrudes out of the top portion of the cylinder head (Also TAN)... is that wire disconnected or is it attached to another TAN wire of the engine's wiring harness?

The hose connects to the port (left) lower side of the "Carburetor Face Plate ***embly" (Box). The other end connects to a fitting at the front portion of the bottom main bearing.

If you're speaking of the round rubber pin/socket plug that I see unplugged on the port (left) side of that engine... that would normally connect to the VRO pump (part of the warning system). NOTE... I DO NOT see a VRO pump (Quite large black plastic pump with four hoses attached) on that engine, and if it does not exist, you MUST mix your fuel/oil to a 50/1 mixture

That person lied, meaning everything else he said is questionable. In the first picture, see that unpainted small round dome component attached to the starboard (right) lower portion of the cylinder head that has 1 Red wire and 2 Yellow wires leading from it.... that is a rectifier that converts AC voltage from a stator located under the powerhead to DC voltage to charge the engine's battery.

Perhaps the seller knows no better... BUT... he should. You can test the rectifier as per a section at the bottom of this reply... BUT... disconnect one terminal of the battery first to avoid expensive slip ups.

Good job on the pictures. (Joe)
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(Small Rectifier Test)
(J. Reeves)

Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier ***y immediately.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

joe_omc32 | eBay
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Joe thank you so much for you fast reply

I took off the wires from the Rectifier and here are the values

Red = 4.91 (red rev) = 0.87
Yellow/Blue = 4.95 (YB rev) = 0.510
Yellow/White = 5.03 (YW rev) = 0.551
Yellow = 4.17 (Yellow rev) = 0.564

On auto these are the values I received, on Manual with beep I got nothing but OL on my Fluke 15b meter.

Maybe i tested wrong? not sure, I didn't actually remove the rectifier from the boat just the wires from the terminal.

Thanks for identifying that socket connector makes a lot of sense as I've been mixing since i got it, didn't know it had a built in mixer.

The wire now that i look at it is more of a brownish / tan wire. below are some more photos I took

One picture show a better view of the wire, the other is how i disconnected the rectifier from the terminal.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

The Engine model # is E50TLCUD

Model #E50TLCUD is a 1987 50hp Evinrude... NOT... a 1997. Is that a typo on your part or did the seller deceive you?

The ohm meter readings are not important!. What is important is to test the rectifier diodes exactly as I wrote them (reading one way, none the other, etc) to determine if the rectifier is good or bad.

In looking at the terminal strip.... hopefully you took my advice and disconnected one terminal of the battery..... The RED wire leading to the rectifier is still attached! Impossible to test the rectifier with that lead attached.

The ohm meter is all you need.

The disconnected TAN wire that was in question is no doubt one that led to the oil tank for the VRO. Just put some electrical tape on it.

The other TAN wire that I inquired about is still connected inside of that rubber boot, connected to the other TAN wire that that leads to the overheat sensor at the top portion of the cylinder head.

Take a picture of the port (left) side of that powerhead as I want to see what type fuel pump is on it.

Joe once again thank you so much for the testing instructions, re-tested and it appears the rectifier is good, the only odd thing i noticed was i was getting 0.5 readings throughout the entire rectifier until I did red MM wire to base of rectifier and black to red rectifier wire I would get a steady 0.8 reading on it, but reversing the wires would give OL on the rest. Do you think it might be the stator?

Will take a pic of the fuel pump later today when I get home. Thank you so much for identifying the VRO Pump and tan wire, that is a huge weight lifted off me.