James.... I've found from experience that when doing any kind of repair to the water pump a$$embly, it's best to simply replace the entire pump... mainly to include the impeller housing, the impeller, and plate, to name the major items, along with the other items such as the impeller key, new bolts, O Rings, etc.

The above holds true UNLESS you've purchased the major components separately of course OR you've already installed a new pump a$$embly and inadvertently damaged one of the new components (it happens).

If it were me, I would go to the trouble to double check the pump installation procedure as it's very easy to have the impeller key slip out, have the impeller get a fin pinched under the housing, or have that goofy looking O Ring slip out of place.

It's best to use the sealer mentioned below between the plate and the lower unit surface, and also on the bottom surface of the impeller housing so that it seals well on top of the plate.

(OMC Adhesive is now Bombardier 3M Product #847 and may be listed as Scotchgrip 847, part number 776964)

With the lower unit removed, check that the water tube has not been hit and pushed upwards... missing the tube to pump grommet also happens from time to time. Measure it to see that the tube will insert into the grommet for the appropriate length.
*************

I haven't re-read out past conversations so if I'm repeating anything here, it's just because one of us has a bad memory.

Double check the compression which should be in the neighborhood of 100 psi and fairly even on all cylinders. Let me know what the psi readings are.

If everything in the water pump area is as it should be, but the compression is not as it should be, there may be a slightly blown head gasket which would allow the combustion enter the water pa$$ageway, resulting in a stalemate ie combustion power going down, water coming up, the two meet and the water just sits there and boils.

Unfortunately, only one way to check that... remove the heads for a thorough inspection. While the heads are off (if it comes to that), make it a point to inspect the water deflectors (as follows).

The head bolts are to be torqued to 18 to 20 foot pounds in the following sequence:

9...10
5....6
1....2
4....3
8....7

********************
(Water Deflectors)
(J. Reeves)

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficiently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a ha$$le at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the rubber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending above the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.

Let me know what you find. (Joe)

1984 e115tlcrd low water flow

Joe,
Before I decided to replace the water pump (my "remove lower unit post)" I did a pressure check and the results were: Starboard top 125, Starboard bottom 125, Port top 120, Port bottom 120. No signs of water in cylinder.

Replaced water pump still got low pressure.
I ran the motor again today long enough to get a pressure test while motor was up to operating temperature
Performed pressure test as you recommended.
Starboard top 120. Starboard bottom 120. No signs of water in cylinders. Port top 125 with water in cylinder. Port Bottom 115 with water in cylinder. You were dead on. Leaking head gasket. Good call.

I have dis***embled the port side head, and cleaned it. Removed a lot of built up calcium and salt. Found what looked like a wear hole on the composite gasket and a burn spot on the steel ring of the gasket.
Removed the water deflectors. These things were flat. I mean flat. Had been flattened enough that there was no visible hole.

Thanks for the very detailed reply from my last post. It was great.
My questions now are:
Should I replace the blown gasket and run for a while or replace the gaskets on both heads while it is down? (I've always found that if you do too many things at one time you never really know where the problem was.)
Why did the water deflectors flatten out? Are they critical if they aren't open?
Any more tips or comments please let me know.
Thanks again for your patience, concern and helpful comments.
jamescpittman

Just replace the blown head gasket and leave the other one as is... BUT... do re-torque "all" head bolts to 18 to 20 foot pounds in the sequence as listed in my last reply post.

Water deflectors flatten out with time (a very long time), but overheating does take its toll on them causing a premature swelling.

When they swell, the center ones that keep the water from flowing horizontal from one side of the head to the other swell sideways to a degree that they touch the sidewall which results in stopping the water from flowing any further.

These water deflectors exist only on the various "Crossflow" engines (yours), NOT on the Loop Charged models.

1984 e115tlcfd low water flow

Thanks for the reply. Joe, I only removed two water diverters. That's all I saw. Are there others on this motor? The exploded parts view only shows two.
Oh yea by the way the cylinders looked ok. Didn't,t see any corrosion or gouging.
Will let you know when I am finished.
James Pittman

V/4 model water deflector quantity = 2 on each bank (Total on engine = 4).

1984 e115tlcrd low water flow

OK Joe. I have replaced both head gaskets and reconnected wiring and coils etc. and re connected the battery. Tried to start motor and it turns over good, but I have no spark at any of the plugs. A visual check has not turned up any obvious reasons.
I hate to ask this, but just how do I start trouble shooting this. It has to be related to the repair work that I performed because the motor started up on first crank after the water pump replacement. One thing of note. I was removing the first coil on the first head when the coil touched the block and arched. I noticed the battery was still connected. I disconnected it and it stayed disconnected until the head gasket repair was complete. Could this have caused a problem?
I don't know if there is any fuses that may have been blown or where to look. I did a search, but didn't find this one.
James Pittman

I can't imagine what wire you must have wired wrong in simply removing the cylinder heads, however..... somehow you have voltage being applied somewhere it doesn't belong.

Wired properly, it would be impossible for a coil to arc to the power-head. Sorry to say that I can't help you on this James and that you'll need to look closely at whatever wires you may have moved in that head gasket repair.

Let me know when you find it.