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225 V6 With No Spark

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  • #1

    225 V6 With No Spark

    Late '80s 225 I have owned for 2 years. Has been getting hard to start but runs fine once going. New spark plugs and fuel filter 2 weeks ago. Two good batteries crank it over fine.

    Yesterday it started and ran for a while, then would not start again. Now there is no spark on any cylinder using inline spark tester.

    Any common points of failure on these? Guess I need a manual to troubleshoot components.
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  • #2
    That stator (beginning of the ignition and charging system) is prone to melting down due to the heat generated.

    Visually, closely inspect the stator's two black coils that are located at the rear portion of it. If either or both of those coils are dripping a sticky looking substance down on the powerhead, that would result in a AC voltage drop to the powerpack's capacitor, in turn resulting in weak, erratic, and eventually no ignition. If this is the case (meltdown), replace the stator.

    Normally, when a stator melts down, at first it will function okay when cold, but as it gets hot.... trouble! (sound familiar?).

    Let us know what you find.
    Last edited by Joe Reeves; 06-27-2017, 08:26 AM.

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    • #3
      Thanks Joe - I will check it tomorrow.

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      • #4
        Seems to have been some oozing going on from the stator just where you said Joe.

        I also did a few tests listed in the Seloc OB Repair Manual. The sensor coil resistance is infinity between all leads except: C-D on port side is 1.8M, A-C on stb side is 30M, and A-D on stb side is 1.6Mohms.

        Sensor coil short test shows infinity on all except: port D = 2M, stb A = 28M, stb D = 1.8M.

        Charge coil resistance shows 855 ohms on port, 860 on stb.
        should be 895 - 1045

        Charge coil output should be 130 volts. port side = 100, stb = 105

        Got disgusted and quit after that!

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        • #5
          If those two large black coils are actually dripping down a sticky substance on the powerhead... a mention you won't find in any manual, just one of the outside discoveries... the stator requires replacing regardless of whatever reading you may obtain. When I encounter that meltdown scenario, I just replace the stator and don't bother dragging out ant test equipment... saves the customer a few dollars in the labor time area.

          However.... those coils do have a insulation coating from the factory, a runny look but cold and hard. Do not mistake this for a meltdown. Make sure that the meltdown exists and the dripping is there (you can't miss it).

          Yeah, the price of the stator is enough to get disgusted about.

          Now... about my 1988 Ford 150 where the TPS and the IAC valve on the throttle body. The conflict between the Haynes manual and the info I come across on the Internet is driving me nuts!

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          • #6
            There is def some shiny black stuff on the top bearing cap directly under the coils.

            I did some of the testing to find the status of the sensor, which also seems to be bad based on the readings. Now trying to decide if I really want to sink $400 - $700 into this old engine. Tiller arm is very corroded & I don't like to think about what would happen if that snapped at 40 mph!

            The Seloc manual is also suspect in my mind. The electrical section start out saying my engine (225 hp - 1986-91) has 2 power packs. And several illustration are swapped.

            Ah well.....

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            • #7
              Originally posted by aquamusic View Post
              The Seloc manual is also suspect in my mind. The electrical section start out saying my engine (225 hp - 1986-91) has 2 power packs. And several illustration are swapped. Ah well.....
              Yeah.... The older 225's did have 2 packs. That's why it's best to get a manual that is specifically for the engine you have...NOT one that takes in an ***ortment of engines that will totally confuse a person.

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