Since 1973 which is the starting point of your ignition system (Magneto Capacitance Discharge) I have installed numerous stators, timer-bases, powerpacks, etc etc..... never once have I had to reset the timing.

Don't be concerned about the timing UNLESS you or someone else tinkers with it to begin with.

thanks Joe reeves

Thanks for your response. My initials voltage checks found high resistance across the stator windings and leads to ground checks. measured what appeared to be low voltage across stator leads (90v rms meter) but also each stator lead to ground measured 30V rms on one side and 40Vrms on the other. I will be checking with DVA adapter this weekend. The curious thing was the timer base also had similar results (high resistance - infinite, yet measured voltages from each lead to ground when cranking). It seems unusual that both would be defective simultaneously. Have you experienced this? (where both had to be replaced)

Thanks again

No, never encountered anything like that.

Frankly, I would rather use a analog (needle) ohm volt meter. I do have access to digital meters but find their readings odd and confusing so I avoid them. Nor have I ever had to use a DVA meter.

The analog meter, to me, has always gave a true reading... and I came from the school, so to speak, when digital meters and DVA's didn't exist so I'm sort of locked in that time zone and mind frame of having faith in the analog meter.

If a stator is cracked and/or leaking, dripping a sticky looking substance down on the powerhead... that creates a AC voltage drop to the power-packs capacitor. In which case, replace it regardless of whatever reading you might obtain.

And with that $8.95 needle meter.......
If you obtain the correct ohm reading between the Yellow wires (Charging)... and the correct ohm reading between the Brown wires (AC to pack)... and no reading between any of those wires to ground... plus no cracks or leakage as mentioned above... the stator can be considered okay.

The same holds true for the timer base ohm reading between the common wire (white?) and the colored wires leading to the pack.

Just for a trial thing, if you use the analog meter, let me know what you find.

Well, My homemade DVA adapter didn't do the trick as far as measuring peak output voltage. The internal capacitor was too larger to properly charge to the peak value. I did however, pull the stator and timer base. The voltages measured from each stator lead to ground (40v on one lead and 50V on the other) lead me to believe the stator is bad. I have replacements ordered but was wondering, is there a simple way to remove the blk/yell lead from the stator harness? The special tool from CDI costs $85. I'm also wonder what grease to use beneath the timer base. Would a marine wheel Bearing (trailer) grease be adequate?

The plug/pin connectors.... they can be removed with long nose pliers, just use care.

I always used a anti corrosive grease, any kind, on any part of a outboard engine that required a bit of grease.

Thanks Joe Reeves

Thanks Joe Reeves. I received my replacement stator and timer base last Friday and was able to make the trip up to the lake Sunday morning. I am happy to say the work was worth the effort! The outboard now fires up right away. I left it idle a good while before shutting it down and attempting to restart. It started reliably each time. All troubleshooting and repair was performed while the pontoon was docked on the shoreline which made it extra challenging. Just wanted to say thanks for all your help and feedback!