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Evinrude Etec 2012 150HP motor power tilt and trim stuck in down position

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  • Evinrude Etec 2012 150HP motor power tilt and trim stuck in down position

    Hi,
    I have an Evinrude Etec E150DPXAAB 2012 150HP motor with power tilt and trim hydraulic unit.
    The motor is tilted in the down position and I cannot get the power tilt and trim unit hydraulic pump motor to run. I have checked
    • that there is 12V coming out of the relay to the motor blue and green wires when I press the tilt up / down (i.e. the relay seems perfectly fine)
    • I have even connected 12V directly to the motor plug in both polarities but the motor will not turn
    • The resistance of the motor seems very high > 130kohms i.e. seems open circuit
    • I have checked that the down / up limit switch circuit is closed
    The main issue I am having is that I cannot get the manual release screw to turn. I have sprayed several types of anti-corrosion sprays like Corrosion X and Shift Ya Bastard and also tried heating the screw and / or case or the hydraulic pack around the manual release screw and then using a manual impact driver but it just isn't turning. The head is getting pretty stuffed up too (see pic).

    At this point, I'm just keen to get the engine tilted so that I can replace the power tilt and trim unit or just the motor.

    A mechanic I spoke to said that to move the boat he could take the propeller shaft / gearbox off - but I am thinking if I could just get the motor tilted so I could access the unit, would not need to do that.

    I was wondering whether anyone could tell me whether if I took the lower pin that goes through the hydraulic tilt unit out and also a smaller pin that looks like just there to restrain things if needed - is in a hole marked 1 in a group of 6 - whether I could then tilt the motor and hydraulic unitup together or whether the power pack unit would clash with something else as I tried to tilt it up? I am not sure whether this would help too much but it might help me get better access to the manual release screw.

    Also, am wondering how you get a pin like shown in position 1 out…. It has kind of a circlip but I have never seen one like it - it has no bits to pull apart - any advice appreciated.

    I am open to any other suggestions that would help me get this unit fixed or removed so I could replace it.

    I tried to attach some pics but as new user seems like i cannot.


    Thanks


  • #2
    I am pleased to say that I thought I would try and apply enough force to cause the collision relief to activate. This worked for me and I was able to raise the motor up. As it was coming up I think I could hear the hydraulic oil moving - either way it has worked. And, after doing that I tried turning the manual relief screw again with the impact driver. I was able to get it to do 1 full turn. I've now sprayed some more anti-corrosion in there and will see if I can get it loose enough after a few more whacks to turn it by hand.

    Interestingly, once in the up position I thought I would try the up down buttons. The motor did turn in the down direction very briefly but then stopped again. I will try and measure the current and voltage from / on the battery when I do this. When I tried previously I convinced myself that the batteries were good and I did try a separate battery. I didn't see any dip of the voltage at any time. The wiring to the motor looks fine - not damaged in any obvious way.

    I am just stoked that it is in the up position now. I think I will replace the whole unit just to be sure. Thanks.

    Comment


    • #3
      Congratulations, well done. If you keep the trim unit might want to replace trim motor and manual release screw.
      Regards
      Boats.net
      Evinrude Outboard Parts

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by boats.net View Post
        Congratulations, well done. If you keep the trim unit might want to replace trim motor and manual release screw.
        Thanks - yes I will be looking at getting prices for replacing motor, manual release screw and also for a whole new unit just for comparison. This might be a stupid questions, but do you happen to know whether if you buy a whole new unit, does it come filled with oil and ready to install or do you need to also buy oil, fill and commission?

        Comment


        • #5
          You will have to add fluid to new PTT unit.
          Regards
          Boats.net
          Evinrude Outboard Parts

          Comment


          • #6
            Well, I got the PTT unit out. For the top pin, I used a ball joint press - made it extremely easy. Unfortunately for the lower pin, I could not source a large enough one locally. I did find one on the web but shipping was going to cost a lot. So I tried a bigger hammer and that got the lower pin. I used small screwdriver to remove the retainer on the other pin in position "1" and it came off nicely too.

            One annoying thing that happened is that when I unclipped the motor connector from the plug that connects to the relay module, for some reason this time it kind of sprung down beyond where I could reach. I had disconnected it several times before and this didn't happen. I had wanted to tape some wire to each cable after I removed from connector it so I could just pull it back through when I re-installed the new / refurbed PTT. Anyway, I pulled it through to the other side and taped a pull-wire to each and then pulled them down through the wiring protector.

            I did have to remove the trim sender to get the PTT out and it made pulling the cables through easier.

            Motor still doesn't turn. I have sourced a replacement unit that I am going to pick up today hopefully.

            I've put a few more pics in the dropbox link https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tmnhp4171...qZS2TOj9a?dl=0


            I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions on:

            1. Cleaning the pins and the holes up - the pins look a bit corroded - not too bad - but was thinking there might be a good product that might be good to use or method of cleaning that works well?
            2. Grease for the pins / holes - the manual I think recommends Triple Guard but I have some Marine Grease - are they same / similar?
            3. Easy way to align the hole / pin during re-install - I know the concept sounds easy i.e. align holes, but given that I will be likely bashing that lower pin in and trying to hold / align at same time, was wondering if anyone had a tip / trick to make it easier?
            4. When I go to pull the wires back around to the relay side under the rear of the motor, any advice for getting it through / under? The manual doesn't show exactly the route so I am ***uming as long as I can poke something through to help pull the wires through, and that they can reach where they previously got to it should be OK?

            Thanks to all the advice so far - it's been very appreciated.

            Comment


            • #7
              I cleaned the pins with wire brush on bench grinder they slid in very easily. I plugged the wires into the relay plug to test and the replacement unit works great.
              I now just need to route them into the engine and around to the relay module plug.
              Nearly done.

              Comment

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