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1997 evinrude 9.9hp 4 stroke fuel pump 435352

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  • 1997 evinrude 9.9hp 4 stroke fuel pump 435352

    In 2009 I had to replaced my fuel pump. I thought this time I would get the replacement parts instead of buying a new pump.
    When I took the pump apart the two check valves were out of their housing. Not sure of why they came out I decided to go back to a new pump. Now 5 years later the pump is acting up so I was going to order a new pump (435352). To my dismay I found out that they no longer are making this pump. I still had the repair kit (435070) that I was going to use in 2009 that hadn't been open. I took out the pump and once again the check valves fell out of their housing. This time I had to try and replace the check valves which I did. Once replaced the motor ran for 16 minutes at 2500RPM and stalled. I pumped the bulb and it ran for approximately the same time before stopping.
    Here are my questions;
    I think that the check valves didn't stay in their housing and the motor was running on the gas that was pumped by the bulb..??? I think this is a possibility that gas can get still get to the carb with the check valves popped ??
    Anybody know what would cause the check valves to pop ?? I had 3 other old pumps that I had saved and when I took them apart the valves stayed in their housing. I can still run the motor by pumping the bulb every 15 minute but why should I…
    I tried removing the check valves from an old pump and they were very hard to get out. I don't see how they popped out twice all by themselves
    Anybody know if there is a replacement available for the 435352 ?? Any thoughts on why the check valves popped on me two times??

  • #2
    Don't know why they're doing that, but you can google your part number with item name and possibly locate a replacement. If no luck through google, you might try mikuni Web site, they possibly have a cross reference for your pump number.

    Good luck.

    Comment


    • #3
      Good news

      I took the middle section, which contains the check values, of one of the 3 pump I had replaced in the past and installed it in the pump that I had just rebuilt. When I took the latest pump apart the check valves had also popped out . That being the third time this has happened. I installed the middle section and happy to say it appears to be working now.
      Lesson learned, Don't throw away old parts, Don't buy BRP stuff..

      -

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      • #4
        If I remember right this is one of the in house motors made by omc just before they went under (made for about 4 years then omc went to Suzuki for building their 4 strokes.)

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        • #5
          I'm not familiar with that?
          OMC got bought out by a corp named RBC (can look up on internet), and they are still making their own motors? As far as I've heard?
          I'm not aware of Suzuki making anything for them?

          Later.

          Comment


          • #6
            1997 9.9 and 15 hp fuel pump Shame on BRP for not supporting their products

            Originally posted by roehrle View Post
            In 2009 I had to replaced my fuel pump. I thought this time I would get the replacement parts instead of buying a new pump.
            When I took the pump apart the two check valves were out of their housing. Not sure of why they came out I decided to go back to a new pump. Now 5 years later the pump is acting up so I was going to order a new pump (435352). To my dismay I found out that they no longer are making this pump. I still had the repair kit (435070) that I was going to use in 2009 that hadn't been open. I took out the pump and once again the check valves fell out of their housing. This time I had to try and replace the check valves which I did. Once replaced the motor ran for 16 minutes at 2500RPM and stalled. I pumped the bulb and it ran for approximately the same time before stopping.
            Here are my questions;
            I think that the check valves didn't stay in their housing and the motor was running on the gas that was pumped by the bulb..??? I think this is a possibility that gas can get still get to the carb with the check valves popped ??
            Anybody know what would cause the check valves to pop ?? I had 3 other old pumps that I had saved and when I took them apart the valves stayed in their housing. I can still run the motor by pumping the bulb every 15 minute but why should I…
            I tried removing the check valves from an old pump and they were very hard to get out. I don't see how they popped out twice all by themselves
            Anybody know if there is a replacement available for the 435352 ?? Any thoughts on why the check valves popped on me two times??

            I have essentially the same engine excepting mine is 15 hp.
            The engine would only run if I always squeezed the bulb. I bought a fuel pump repair kit (crazy expensive for only a small amount of parts). I took the pump apart and found as you did, the two check valve disks were loose inside the housing. I was lucky that they didn't fall out and get lost along with the delicate springs and holding washers. This brings up a question; you did have the two springs and two keeper washers?
            I tried to gently bend the locking tabs on the keeper washer for a good bite so they would stay in. Just to be clear, the check valve disks go in with the rubber side towards the inside and the shinny metal side facing out towards the springs. Next the delicate springs go in and both sets are held in place with the keeper washers (my term). After I did this repair, I wasn't all that confident with the repair. I haven't gone very far. It seems like a poor way to keep the springs and check valves intact.
            My motor worked as normal after I re***embled the pump. Just an aside, the rebuild kit was not necessary for me but I put the $65 kit in anyway.
            Boating season is pretty much over for me.

            I have a plan for next spring. I bought some fine gauge stainless wire (home depot) and I'll drill (probably 6 ) very small holes with my dremel in the check valve housing just above the keeper washers and run the wire diagonally across the holes just above the washers. I hope that there is enough room.
            I thought about gluing the washers in but I feel that would only be a temporary fix.
            I was in the market for a PWC a few years ago and wanted to buy a Seadoo (BRP) but ended up with a Yamaha Waverunner and now I'm glad that I did for long term support. Good luck.

            Comment


            • #7
              After finding out that OMC had discontinued the fuel pump for the 4 stroke engine I started thinking about how to save these motors from the scrap yard. After checking the dimensions of the 2 stroke and 4 stroke fuel pumps I found they were the same size.

              Here is a link showing how I converted the fuel pump and a short video of it running after the conversion. Hopefully, this will help save a few motors from the scrap heap.

              https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0...S1JVG10OG1ET2s

              https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0...jdpMU54X2dkaUE
              Last edited by PhrozeN_FisH; 05-17-2017, 02:50 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi Phrozen.

                Do you still have the videos of how to make the 2 stroke fuel pump work in place of the 4 stroke? The links here aren't working for me. I'm on my last ditch effort to make this motor work. One of the check valve keeper washers keeps coming out when I run the engine. Thanks in advance if you can help.

                Comment

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