No power...

[officerkrc]

I have a 1994 175 HP Evenrude model # E175GLERA.. I made the mistake of running ethanol fuel in it for a year and letting it sit for 1.5 years with tanks almost full (I always use Stabil Marine)... I took it to the lake this year and started right up, but as soon as I pushed on the hot foot, it would die.. Idle was great.. NO power! I brought it home and drained the fuel, cleaned the tanks replace fuel line from tank swith to motor with new prime bulb, and filled up with new, non ethanol fuel, thinking the fuel was stale. Got to the lake, same thing...

I got home and tested spark and its good.. Was about to order carb rebuild kits when I noticed fuel leaking out of the primer fuel service valve when I tried to start it. As I was taking a closer look, I noticed the nut on the fuel filter was split. (see pics attached)

Could this be the problem that I am having?? What else should I check?

I ordered those parts and was way less then the power pack and having the carbs rebuilt.. LOL

[Joe Reeves]

The faulty parts you're replacing would allow air to be drawn in to the pump and replacing them in an attempt to sure the problem is worth a shot... BUT... having the engine sit for 1-1/2 years, unfortunately, usually results in fouled carburetors.

[officerkrc]

Spark?

Can the spark be tested with a inline spark tester or is that not good enough?

[Joe Reeves]

Originally posted by officerkrc View Post

Can the spark be tested with a inline spark tester or is that not good enough?

It depends on what kind of inline tester you're speaking of. The neon bulb plug in type testers just don't do it. You need to have a inline tester whereas a gap of 7/16" (In your case) can be set.

The spark that jumps that gap must be a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! The following may be of some use to you.

NOTE: All spark plugs should be removed in order for the engine to obtain the highest rpm posible. THe engine must crank over at least 300 rpm in order for the stator to supply the proper AC voltage to the powerpack capacitor, needed to energize the powerpack.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

joe_omc32 | eBay