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Power pack to coil rewire for evinrude

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  • Power pack to coil rewire for evinrude

    Hello ladies and gents
    I am in need of some technical ***istance for an 1987 evinrude V4 140.
    The power pack leads that go to the primary coils were a little corroded and so I purchased new leads to replace them.
    The new leads arrived and they had amphenol male fittings on one end and the rubber boot on the other. I cut the old power pack leads and soldered amphenol female fittings to them so I could join the new leads to the old power pack leads.
    I put heat shrink a couple of times sealed the leads and ran the boat but I felt it was not quite right.
    I conducted a spark test using a spark tester at a 7/16 gap and from observation the spark was blue with a cracking sound but not consistent .. a spark every 2 -3 seconds.. all 4 cylinders were similar.
    By joining the the power pack leads with amphenol fittings have I made a big mistake? I did ***ume that that was the way to since the new ones arrived with these type of fittings on them.
    Any thoughts gents? I will look forward to your comments

  • #2
    Your soldered heat shrink connections that you describe are fine.

    The 7/16" gap spark test is to be done with "all" of the spark plugs removed in order to obtain the highest rpm. The engine must crank over at least 300 rpm for the stator to deliver the necessary AC voltage to the powerpak's capacitor.

    Since you are receiving the proper spark occasionally as per your explanation, my guess is that the test cranking speed is fluctuating, the stator may be encountering a meltdown, or the flywheel magnets (if not embedded into the flywheel) have come loose and are jammed together.

    Stator meltdown?.... Look closely at the stator under the flywheel to see if there might be a sticky looking substance dripping down on the powerhead area. THere are two large coils embedded in that stator that supply the AC voltage to the powerpack capacitor.

    On a 35 ampere stator, (Magnets are epoxied on)the large coils will be visible at the back portion of the stator. On a smaller ampere (Magnets are embedded within the flywheel), the coils would be hidded within the stator's insulation, one at the immediate front, with one at the immediate back.

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    • #3
      Hi Joe
      Thanks for your promp response. At the moment all I have is a single spark tester and I was doing one coil at a time with the other 3 spark plugs still in situ and the motor was starting..obviously the wrong technique!!
      I am going to make a home made spark tester that can test all 4 as you suggest on the forum and perform the test as you suggest.
      In addition you are right with the fact that my engine has a fluctuation RPM at idle. It fluctuates between 800 and 1100 at idle on the muffs. The last service technician said it was because there was 'play' between the reed valve shafts Within the throttle body housings and I think he tried several hours to sync the motor and try eliminate the fluctuations and his explanation was the clearance fit between reed shaft and throttle body housing?.
      I am going to investigate how much this clearance fit is using a dial indicator and micrometer right now. I will also take of the flywheel and do some investigation as you suggest.

      Regards
      Royce

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      • #4
        Royce... There are no "shafts" a$$ociated with the reed valves. I have no idea what your mechanic is speaking of.

        The speed fluctuation that I spoke of would pertain to the electric starter cranking the engine over (with all s/plugs removed) which is unlikely but could happen... mentioned only so that you would take notice.

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