Wot e200txecm 1998

[jjhjrcmh]

Hello, I have a 1998 E200TXECM. I rebuilt carbs, did a lync and sync checked timing right at 18 degrees. Replaced fuel pump and tube into tank. Put a clear tube in line checking for air bubbles none solid fuel delivery. Right out of the hole she shot right on down the ICW I backed off throttle as a boat went by and she just went to 3500rpm and thats were she stayed. checked spark while on water and had on all 6 cylinders. Any ideas??? I am at a loss. Did notice today the reg/rectifier was putting out 18-19 volts as it reved up. Checked with meter and it was right there. If to much charging voltage will that cause these problems? I want to thank you for this site its great and appriciate the answers.

[Franklloyd]

Fuel or Electrical?

I have same engine. Very inconsistent. Still troubleshooting. Wondering if it's electric or fuel octane. How's yours running, what have you found?

[Joe Reeves]

Originally posted by jjhjrcmh View Post

Hello, I have a 1998 E200TXECM. I rebuilt carbs, did a lync and sync checked timing right at 18 degrees. Replaced fuel pump and tube into tank. Put a clear tube in line checking for air bubbles none solid fuel delivery. Right out of the hole she shot right on down the ICW I backed off throttle as a boat went by and she just went to 3500rpm and thats were she stayed. checked spark while on water and had on all 6 cylinders. Any ideas??? I am at a loss. Did notice today the reg/rectifier was putting out 18-19 volts as it reved up. Checked with meter and it was right there. If to much charging voltage will that cause these problems? I want to thank you for this site its great and appriciate the answers.

E200TXECM = 1998 200hp Evinrude Looper

Personally I have never had a failing alternator charging system affect the ignition system since it came into existence in the very early 1960's.... however many boaters have sworn that this is exactly what they have encountered in recent years.

Your engine would have a Water Cooled Voltage Regulator/Rectifier a$$embly which has apparently failed if it's putting out that much voltage.

Since the tachometer functions off of the 6 pulse charging system (yours), and if the regulator/rectifier is failing, that should affect the tachometer's operation ie wrong reading, erratic reading, drop to zero, needle bouncing around, that sort of thing. If this is the case, below is a simple test you can do.

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(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

NOTE: For the later models that DO NOT incorporate a wiring terminal strip, splicing into the "Yellow Wire" mentioned will be necessary.

Normally the Gray wire leading from the tachometer is attached at the terminal strip to another Gray wire which leads from the water cooled voltage regulator/rectifier...... remove the gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.

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Check that the throttle butterflies are in synchronization.

With "all" spark plugs removed, the spark should jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it? Note that the gap is important!

What is the psi compression reading of "all" individual cylinders?

Spark plugs are what... Make, Designation #, Gap?

I a$$ume that the drop from running normal to having it drop to 3500 rpm was instantaneous when you reduced the throttle? If so... approximately how long was the engine running normally at full throttle?

Was this the first "test run" after you did the carburetor work etc?

What was the previous problem that necessitated the carburetor work etc?

Is this engine new to you or have you owned it for some time?